la Vega central de Santiago

Did you think that My Fair Lady was set in Covent Garden in London? You're wrong. It's set in La Vega - at least, the Chilean version of the play has it's perfect setting among the tin roofs and alleyways of la Vega Central in Santiago. Imagine the fruits, flowers and sellers from the movie, you've got the setting our our adventure this morning.

From the flower stalls to the squashed cabbage leaves on the ground, kittens sleeping between the stalls. Professor Henry Higgins was stuck in my head roundly declaring that, "here she is a prisoner of the gutter, condemned by every syllable she utters..."

Lois Mateer, Mom and I set out at 7 am, well before the sun came up and well below freezing temperatures, bundled to the hilt and our sense of adventure primed for an excursion. Lois and Mom with their lists and I as the general pack-horse to carry the goods.

Hundreds of tiny stalls with mountains of fresh, delicious produce line the alleyways. The richness and bounty of the Chilean countryside gets shipped to Santiago to be sold at the Vega. Mountains, mountains, of lemons, potatoes, tomatoes, spinach, avocadoes, pumpkins, fish, meat etc. Baskets of nuts, dried fruits, and every spice from oregano, thyme and basil to garlic, walnuts and almonds. Every variety of peppers, eggs, cheeses and hams. I had a fun time accusing one guy of injecting his garlic with steroids, what do you mean by selling garlic that's the size of a large potato? He laughs and lets me take a picture. I had a definite moment of realizing that Lois was standing next to a mountain of spinach that was taller than her. She's my height!

Highlight of the morning, the sun barely rising casting it's first weak rays and lighting up the fruit as we're standing in front of one of many tomato stands. Mom looks at Lois and says, "You realize we're never going to be able to bring our supporters here...." as they look at each other and giggle wickedly together and pay 25 cents per kilo of tomatoes.

Our take-home booty.

Now, caveat, this is way cheaper than even the usual feria, or street market, price. I wanted to laugh but was sweating profusely carrying our wealth of raspberries, kiwis, potatoes, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cilantro, nuts, etc. They wanted to get fish and meat still but I objected vociferously as my arms were falling off and my feet were frostbitten.

To compare it to home, we spent about $80 US for what at home would have easily cost $400.00 at Bi-Lo. At home I wouldn't even dream of getting that much produce. Supper tonight was, well, food like God intended it to taste.